A couple of years ago I had the pleasure of attending the International Academy for Eating Disorders Conference in Seattle, Washington. It was a great conference and I learnt a great deal about so many aspects of the illness. One of the most interesting panel discussions I attended was one on how socio-cultural influences are related to this issue. A woman I know and greatly admire, Zoe Edquist, was one of the panellists in the discussion.
Zoe is a former model, and at the time of the conference, a lawyer working with the Australian Fashion Council. Zoe also has an intimate understanding of eating disorders, having recovered from one herself. She gave a very detailed presentation about the evolution of fashion and how the most 'desirable' model shape at any given time in history was very related to fashion of the time. Zoe clearly stated that she believed it was fashion designers who set 'body trends' via the clothes they made, sample sizes they produced and the models they used to show their clothes. While Zoe stated she was really pleased to see 'everyday' clothing labels (making clothes that your average woman like me can afford), starting to make clothes in a wider range of sizes and beginning to use more diversely shaped models, she did not believe any lasting change regarding the use of overtly thin models would come into affect until the largest and most influential fashion 'houses' also changed their ways. In particular, she stated that it would require someone like the fashion group Louis Vuitton Moet Hennessy (LVMH), to instigate change, especially as they owned many other prominent labels such as Celine, Fendi, Givenchy and DKNY.
I thought of Zoe today when I saw this
article and images from Louis Vuitton's latest Paris catwalk show by head designer Marc Jacobs...and I gave a little smile.
At first glance I could forgive you for wondering why I might be smiling at these images from the LV parade - but I believe there is reason to at least give a little curl up to the corners of my lips. Clearly, all of these models fit the current Western criteria for standardised beauty. That can't be denied. So what is the point (or points) of difference?
To begin with, the models Jacobs has used in his parade today range in age from 21 - 46. In a microcosmic world that is obsessed with youth, this makes a nice change, if simply for no other reason than it is great to see clothes modelled on women, and not girls who are 16, 17 years old. Yes - I know it is hard to believe that Elle Macpherson (top centre) is 46 years old - but she is. The other notable point is that while I'm not prepared to go so far to say these women are curvaceous as the article does, (that's taking it too far to my mind), I certainly can see in some of these models a less angular and painfully thin shape as is so often the norm now on catwalks. In particular, the fuller breasts and arms of Laetitia Casta (top right) are refreshing to see on a European catwalk. On a final note, I actually think the clothes themselves are very beautiful and due to their flattering cut, defined waists and lower hemlines, could easily be worn by women of many different shapes and sizes. If only Mr Jacobs could 'stretch himself' to see clear to making that black lace number in a size 16 I could be tempted to save my pennies to try and afford it. My curves would rock that number.
I know this may seem to some of you to not be that big of a deal - but coming from such a fashion powerhouse as LVMH - I think it is at least a small shift that should be noticed. This is the most powerful fashion house in the world, that just a few years ago was showcasing its clothes on models who were much younger, thinner and angular. Case in point can be seen in the parade below.
The real test of course will come with whether Jacobs will not only continue to use models such as these on a regular and ongoing basis, but also whether he and LVMH will really get out of their comfort zone by showcasing even greater body diversity (let's see some plus size action!), and (gasp!), think about making their clothes in sizes that then actually fit these women - and even those who are larger. Then we would really be on our way.